![]() ![]() The stepper motors should be alright should be, but i have seen many go out around 160-180k miles in the form of cluster failure. This is primarily why I'm worried, because I wouldnt think swapping a part would change the trucks behavior, but the cooling system is something im not knowledgeable in yet, so thats why I came here, to know if that change in behavior was something to be concerned with, or 197 is going to be the new average operating temperature, even though the only thing I replaced was the radiator The truck did not used to have this happen, it would stay consistently at 187 no matter what, and almost never went past 200. When I idle, the truck goes up to about 207 and thats when the fans kick in and drop temps to the high 180s, where it steadily creeps up to 197 and stays there. My fans seem to be running okay, but yes, that is happening that the engine cools more as I drive. I suspected there was air in the system, so I did my best to bleed it and it feels like it helped, but the truck isn't acting as it did before. Honestly, I did not check other connections other then to ensure there were no leakages, which there weren't. Is the Sending Unit the same thing as the gauge's stepper motor? Should I be worried? What can I do to get it back to its usual temps, or what could be causing the increased average? I was happy with it, and even when idling for long periods of time, the truck would never go over 200, always 197 max. Prior to the burst, the truck was very constant in its cooling. I live in AZ and I want to be prepped for the summer heat, and if the truck is going as high as 216 on winter nights, im not too sure what to think of it. Is this normal operating temps? Should I be worried? At that point I started driving and it cooled off, went back to 197ish. I left it idling in open air, and it went up to 216. Something I noticed however, is once I replaced the radiator, the average operating temp is around 197, and it doesn't take much for the truck to go up to 205. Im worried it caused damage, but I replaced the radiator, topped off the coolant and seems to be running fine. My scangauge read it got up to 225, where I pulled over, and let it cool down a little and continued on home. Start your car and allow it to run for a few minutes to ensure that the coolant temperature readings are authentic and that the engine is running efficiently.So about 3 or 4 weeks ago my radiator burst right under the upper radiator hose, dropped a lot of coolant, but thankfully made it home.Once you have verified that the wiring is accurate, reconnect the negative battery cable.The resistance values should correspond to the temperature of the engine coolant. Use a multimeter to test the sensor’s resistance and ensure that the wiring is accurate.Refer to the wiring picture for your specific sensor type to determine the correct wire links. Depending on the type of sensor, you may need to ground the sensor wire or connect it to a 1-wire and a reference voltage wire.The sensor is typically located on the engine block and is in contact with the engine coolant. Disconnect the black battery cable to prevent any electrical shocks or damage to the system.You can consult your car owner’s manual or a repair handbook to determine the type of sensor and its wiring diagram. Identify the type of coolant temperature sensor in your car.Related Post: Can A Bad Coolant Temp Sensor Cause Rough Idle, No-Start, Or Misfire Similarly, when the engine coolant temperature decreases, the sensor resistance also decreases, which sends low earth signal to the temperature gauge, and the indicator rests on the cool indication. When the temperature of the coolant increases, the resistance of the sensor decreases, which sends high earth 1-wire to the temperature gauge, and you see the temperature gauge indicator fully turned to the hot indication. Higher the temperature of the engine’s coolant, the lower the resistance of the ECT sensor, and vice versa. The coolant temp sensor provides an earth signal according to the temperature of the coolant. In three-wire coolant temp sensors, the ECU does not control the temperature gauge in the cluster. The two wires, a “5-volt reference”, and a “ground wire” go to the ECU, and the third wire “Earth 1-Wire for Temp Gauge” goes to the cluster-mounted temperature gauge by providing an earth link to the temperature gauge. Earth 1-Wire for Cluster-Mounted Temperature Gauge 3-Wire-Coolant-Temperature-Sensor-Wiring-Diagram.A three-wire coolant temp sensor has the following three wires. The three-wire coolant temperature sensor is superseded by a two-wire coolant temp sensor. 3 Wire Coolant Temperature Sensor Wiring Diagram 3-Wire-Coolant-Temperature-Sensor-Wiring-Diagram ![]()
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